"Military might met flower power on the Sacai. In the hands of designer Chitose Abe, the juxtaposition
of each style of dress blended with the other to simultaneously soften
and strength their inherent stereotypes.
The designer reduced the rigor of khaki military uniforms by, say,
folding floral print chiffon into the garment. A navy sailor’s Breton
sweater was completed with feminine white guipure lace. And an Airforce
bomber jacket was cut in a shapely silk but stiffened up through the use
of military officer lapels.
When Abe wasn’t beautifully working her core concept, worn with
playful platform hiking boot sandals, she was coming up with other
winning ideas. The whole man/woman mélange popped up in the final
pinstriped business suit looks with chiffon inserts billowing out at
seams or cut directly into the linear fabric to break its
sartorial rhythm. A little tangent trip into the blue and green plaids
of a Scottish kilt was also a worthwhile detour with the grid pattern of
the garment reworked and echoed onto lace panels.
This season, the designer also smartly evolved the brand’s trademark
style of splicing different wardrobe staples together to create trompe
l'oeil outfits. Only a few sweater fronted pieces towards the start of
the show felt familiar. Otherwise Abe showed herself to be pushing her
design aesthetic in interesting new avenues." http://nowfashion.com/sacai-ready-to-wear-spring-summer-2015-paris-10987
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